Sumo wrestling in Tokyo
Ryogoku can be found on the Sobu line in Tokyo, easily distinguishable by its yellow trains, not far from the city center. Usually a relatively quiet area, this is where sumo wrestlers have their stables in Tokyo. This is the name given to the schools in which they live and train throughout their sumo career.
May, September and January are the best months to really see this area in all its glory, as this is when the main sumo tournaments take place in Tokyo. They last for a period of approximately 2 weeks until the final Champion wins on the last day. For the uninitiated, you may think why bother? It’s just a bunch of big guys shoving each other out of a ring. However, when you actually see it, there is an electricity and passion in the audience that can only be truly appreciated when experienced.
There are rituals and ceremonies throughout the proceedings that simply pose the question, “Why?” Natural curiosity takes over and you end up spellbound by the antics and effort that goes into the ring. The referee is like none that you will see in soccer or football. Dressed in an ornate and highly ceremonial kimono, he oversees the battle of wills and makes the decision when things are close. What does a round win? The first sumo to push the other out of the ring or the first to touch the ground with any part of their body other than their feet. Game over.
The auditorium is huge and resonates with the sounds of adults and children calling the name of their favorite fighter and wanting them to win when it is their turn. Each fight generally lasts a maximum of 30 seconds, although there is the rare exception that causes gasps when the two sumos appear to be irrevocably linked. However, no matter how short the round is, all eyes are on the fighters for as long as it takes to produce the winner.
If you need some fresh air and feel like strolling the streets, this is when you will see the guys who have already finished their fights for the day, going to lunch or coming home. It really is quite strange. In general, most Japanese are not what you would call great. It’s such a shock to see 3 massive sumos walking towards you down the middle of the street. One thing is for sure: you won’t get in their way!
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